Tag: occ makeup

No Filter Necessary Contour & Highlight

With the right tools, anyone can recreate a perfectly contoured and highlighted complexion without playing with extreme photo-tricks.

Probably the biggest mistake is applying too much product at once! Thin layers and building intensity where desired is the key to looking flawless on camera and in real life. Of course, product choice and application method contribute to the end result but using small amounts of product makes a major point of difference between amateur and professional results. Unless you plan to be on stage or under harsh editorial studio lighting, less is always more.

Processed with Moldiv

The images above are not filtered/photo shopped, just some old fashioned blending!

1. Prep the skin per usual with appropriate skincare and primer first to perfect the base.  (More on my current skin care faves coming soon).

2. Next, perfect the skin. My current foundation favorite is Chantecaille Future Skin Foundation. is a buildable coverage botanical based foundation that gives a skin-like appearance with a weightless texture. I dampen my Beauty Blender with Caudalie Beauty Elixir and bounce the sponge all over my skin. I typically only use about less than a nickel size of the foundation, dot it on the center of my cheeks, chin, forehead and nose then blend well until the product looks invisible.

3. If you are anything like me, a multi-tasking always on the go mom/wife/working professional, dark circles are always an issue. Use a color corrector to illuminate and bring life back to tired eyes. I’m loving Bobbi Brown Tinted Eye Brightener – see my last post for a more in depth review. Apply in an inverted triangular shape directly below the bottom lash line and extend out to the lower temples.

4. Highlight the parts of the face you want to emphasize. I reach for Cle De Peau Concealer Stick because it’s very pigmented and easy to apply. Apply a thin sweep of this below the eye brightener, in the center of the forehead. Sometimes I apply this on the bridge of my nose and the middle of my chin but in the photos in this post, I was suffering from a minor cold and did not want my nose to be a focal point from constant sneezing.

5. Blend, blend, blend! My take on highlighting is to look glowing and fresh faced without a mess of sparkling glitter. I believe the skin should look like skin. Spritz the Beauty Blender once more with Caudalie Beauty Elixir and use the pointed end of the sponge under the eyes and the rounded end every where else you placed the lighter shades. Blending is quick but it gives the complexion a natural transition instead of harsh demarcation lines. Taking that extra few seconds to smooth the areas between the highlight and base makeup is what perfects the skin.

6. Use a contouring shade along the hollows of the cheeks to add shape to the face, at the high temples of the forehead and below the jaw line. As mentioned above, in the photos below I did not what to do anything special on my nose because I was having irritation from sneezing/congestion but I sometimes slim my nose with a bit of contour and highlight. In general, I use either the Makeup Forever Cream Camouflage Palette #4 (pictured in the images in this post), OCC Makeup Conceal in a deeper shade or Sleek Makeup Cream Foundation. I like to pick up the cream with e.l.f.’s small stipple brush and apply a very deep color in the hollow of my cheek and on the temples. I then place a deep but slightly lighter shade right above the darkest shade on the cheeks and blend with small circular motions with the same stippling brush until the product looks smooth. Using two deep shades makes for a smoother blend.

Processed with Moldiv

The images above is not filtered/photoshopped & is taken with a flash.

Since I typically am not a fan of contouring/highlighting with powders as I find them to look too dry and overly made up, I use all cream products and set with a fine translucent loose powder in the center of the face if I’m just working on myself. The photos shown in the post, I used a small amount of Koh Gen Do UV Powder applied with a fan brush. Generally, my makeup wears well and don’t have a problem with makeup migrating or separating but on my clients I set the skin with a deep powder over the contours and a translucent shade over the highlighted areas with a loose bristle brush and light patting strokes.

*This probably sounds like a long process but on average, this takes me less than ten minutes in the morning.

 

 

Engagement Shoot 3/22/14

Although I can appreciate the skill behind a solid graphic eyeliner and a detailed cut crease, I do still believe in an ethereal more discreet approach to bridal makeup. Wedding makeup – or occasions related to the big day including bridal showers and engagement photos require two main points of difference from a daily makeup look. Number one is longevity (point in case why a major eye statement can sometimes be an unrealistic look) and two is flawless blending in both photos and in real life.

Here are a couple photos of my beautiful bride to be Louraine and her lovely Maid of Honor Sister during a makeup trial this past weekend:

photo 1 

photo 4

photo 2

photo 3

My bridal client Louraine seemed anxious about our makeup consultation since she has cystic acne and acne scarring which can be difficult to camouflage. My pro kit has a variety of different complexion perfecters which offer high coverage without the heavy feeling of some not so skin friendly foundations. She right away noticed that I was not using MAC which she loved since MAC typically triggers breakouts for her skin and that a lot of the products I use contain organic or natural ingredients.

Here’s a breakdown of what I used to create a flawless canvas that translated in person and on camera.

BECCA Cosmetics Ever Matte Poreless Priming Perfector : This is my favorite primer to use if I know my client has oily skin or if the event they are attending is in a hot/humid environment. This is a silicone, fragrance, oil and alcohol free primer making it idea for a lot of different skin types. I used this on both Louraine and her sister mainly in the center of the face (cheeks, forehead, nose and chin) using light patting motions. This product prolongs makeup wear, controls shine and minimizes any uneven textures on the complexion.

Chantecaille Future Skin : This foundation is so innovative as it is an oil-free formula but holds a lot of hydration from the rose water base and soothes any type of irritation with the green tea, arnica and chamomile. It has a weightless feel making it idea for long events and the HD finish makes it beautiful in every type of lighting. On Louraine I used shades Wheat all over and Cammomile to highlight. For her sister, I used shade Cream all over and Alabaster to highlight.

OCC Skin Conceal: I have two darker shades of this concealer in my kit that I use for contouring the skin. It is a vegan formula, ridiculously pigmented and has a long lasting wear. I used a small stipple brush to contour the face and a small eyeshadow blending brush to slim the nose. A tiny bit of this product goes a long way and does not look shiny, ashy or obvious on the skin.

Bobbi Brown Corrector: I love love love to use this product especially for photoshoots as it hides dark circles if used in small amours buffed onto the eye contour. Too much of this product will crease under eyes and can really migrate if its not set with a fine loose or pressed powder. Less is definitely more!

Makeup Forever HD Pressed Powder: Sheer, colorless and in compact form this is my kit favorite for setting the skin. I applied this all over Louraine’s skin as she has oily skin but with a fluffy face brush so skin still looks fresh and non-cakey.

I was so happy to meet these two ladies and boost Louraine’s confidence for her engagement shoot! Here are a couple shots from the photoshoot:

IMG_0387

IMG_1122

 

I can’t wait to glam her entire bridal party in May!

To book me for your next event, please click the “Book Me” link in the menu above.